Underneath Soho’s Brewer Street there is a secret world of villans and superheroes and you all NEED to check it out. As you arrive at Park Row’s understated entrance you may be wondering if you are in the right place. Is this where London’s newest restaurant concept resides? Indeed it is. As you step inside you are greeted by a host who checks your reservation and prompty opens a secret mahogany bookcase to give you entry into another world.
Meander down the magnificent free floating spiral staircase and you know you’re in for a treat as the cinematic soundtrack, pulsating lights and red steaming door lead you into a DC themed universe. Welcome to the Batcave. First impressions are how exquisite (and large) the space is. Housed in what used to be Marco Pierre White’s sinking flagship, the Titanic, the main grade II listed ballroom has been repurposed into a spectacularly classy Art Deco underworld named the Iceberg Lounge (superfans will know this is a reference to super villan Penguin and his attempt at going straight). This space comes complete with a small stage and daily live entertainment (a jazz band was playing on our visit).
After a couple of cocktails we were seated at our table and it was time to enjoy the food. Our waiters and sommelier were perfectly on point ensuring we had everything our hearts desired. For starters we tried the scallops with an oat crumble and pumpkin sauce which was delightfully light and buttery and well complimented by some Chablis white wine and my companion went for a vegan option; the Beetroot Carpacio which was a light intro to the meal but not a personal highlight of the starter menu.
For mains we had the steak with peppercorn sauce and the sea bass with razor clams and caviar and both were cooked to perfection – with my companion declaring the steak was the best she had experienced in a long while. Our sides included macaroni cheese which was the perfect ratio between creamy and cruncy with plenty of shaved truffle and parmesan on top.
On to desert and we went for Riddle Me This – an caramelised apple, hazelnut cream sable with a dopllop of apple jack ice-cream. Yum. Another favourite is the Kiss from a rose vanilla custard tart that is served alongside a real rose dipped in liquid nitrogen and then sprinkled over the tart. Style and culinary substance combined.
We thoroughly enjoyed our visit to Park Row and ended the evening with a sugar high as we did the edible balloon experience (a sugary helium baloon that you inhale and then giggle away in a high pitched voice) – most likely an ode to the Joker. The themes and the immersive elements are brought to life in a classy way without becoming overpowering or gimmicky – there is also no fancy dress allowed so leave your Batman cape at home. It is a wonderful adventure for a date night, a girls’ night out or a special treat for DC fans.
Park Row is located at 77 Brewer Street and they also offer a fully immersive theatrical dining experience too (the Monarch Theatre) which we hope to review in the near future. Could be a great combination to catch the latest Batman movie in the nearby cinemas and then enjoy dinner. For bookings and more information visit their website here.